Friday, March 11, 2011

The Rest of our Story in Puri…

So, besides seeing butterflies and enjoying the deserted beach, what else did we do while we were in Puri???
We visited the Sun Temple in nearby Konark. This 13th century temple is a World Heritage Site and is one of 3 sun temples in this area. The Konark temple is made up of 5 separate structures, 2 large and 3 smaller. The main Sun Temple structure has been severely damaged over time and is partially in ruins. It is 30 meters tall (originally it is thought to have been 60 meters high) and was in the form of a
gigantic chariot with twelve pairs of exquisitely ornamented wheels pulled by seven horses, all carved from sandstone. Each of the wheels serves as a sundial clock. Every inch of the temple was covered with sculpture depicting deities, celestial and human musicians, dancers, lovers, and myriad scenes of courtly life, ranging from hunts and military battles to the pleasures of courtly relaxation. These are interspersed with birds, animals (close to two thousand charming and lively elephants march around the base of the main temple alone), mythological creatures, and a wealth of intricate botanical and geometrical decorative designs.
Our hired guide explained that the carvings were arranged in three levels or tiers, the lowest being for children and depicting animals, household scenes, and historical battles. The middle layer (each tier being the equivalent of 1-2 storeys) was erotica from the Kama Sutra, intended for young men (NOT for young women, of course!). The uppermost level of carvings was for older men as they contemplate the more serious issues of life, and featured the deities in the various stages and activities of their mythologic lives. Although some of these have weathered or been destroyed, a fair number remain in a remarkably good state.
In front of the main temple is another ornately carved structure, Nata Madir, at the eastern lion gate. The main purpose of this gate structure is to allow the sun’s rays to align with windows in the sun temple beyond, thereby identifying the summer solstice and both equinoxes. This structure is also completely covered with carvings. The other two structures are smaller; one is a tiny model of the Sun Temple built as a go-by, and the second was a kitchen building.
 




Another day we also took a rickshaw day trip to Pipili and a heritage handicraft village, Raghurajpur.

Pipili’s main street is ablaze with color from the many handicraft shops along the street. This is where the darling brightly colored lampshades of cotton fabric, ornamented with tiny mirrors, are made. Needless to say, we did some shopping……The heritage village was a bit annoying.  Raghurajpur’s main street is brimming with artisan shops displaying their own rendition of pattachitra paintings on cloth or dried palm leaf.  These are miniature watercolor paintings or pen and ink drawings. The tiny scale and detail is amazing. A great deal is made of demonstrating the art of creating the work, particularly the ink-on-palm drawings, but a man at a local NGO craft set-up there scathingly said that the local people had simply learned the craft, that it was not part of their own heritage. Who knows.  Many other local items were also on display for tourists.  Alison blasted through the shops unscathed, but I succumbed in the first shop…..

Every evening in the resort dinning room we were treated to traditional Orissa music performed by local musicians. Small tuned bongo style drums, a flute, a harmonium, and a three stringed instrument with autoharp style keys performed in various combinations.









On our drive to the Sun Temple we stopped at the Dhruba Art Institute (locally called the Stone Village).  Local stone carvers teach others their art and many carvings are for sale from inches tall to full sized door entrances.  We enjoyed walking through the outside and inside displays seeing the carved marble and sandstone figures. 
Buying two carvings, a darling recumbent Ganesh and a stylishly coiffed Buddha head, and a line of carved elephants was VERY easy…..now the problem will be getting them (about 60 pounds) to Vancouver.  But hopefully Twyla and Greg will not mind having them until we work that part out.

Most of the week we were there, the resort was also hosting various business groups and functions. Therefore, we had several evenings with firework displays and small Bollywood style stage acts. (Some not to successful in my estimation.) AND we are in the midst of the Cricket World Cup so are endlessly bombarded by a sport we know NOTHING about.

So that was Puri for us. We avoided other temples due to it being a high pilgrim time and 500,000 people were at a local temple one day according to the paper while we were lying on the deserted beach.

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