Holi, Holi, Holi (Lords, Gods, Almighties)

March 20th dawned, like all days before it, quiet and sunny. Dean and I determined to break ranks and go out for a walk toward the ghats in the early morning. We donned our white Holi gear and went out on the streets, saw what remained of the bonfires in the streets near our hotel, and approached a tea stall (chai wallah) on the ghats.

There were a dozen or so young boys quietly drinking tea, but with their faces, arms and legs completely smeared in chrome-silver skin paint. It can’t have been good for

them, but they looked marvelous. From their bright gleaming faces stood their eyes rimmed with kohl, their skin-toned lips around white teeth, and their near-black hair. They were ready for the day, but the day was not yet ready for them.
While we sipped our tea, one young fellow struck up conversation with Dean, and said that Holi was “alright for you but not good for your wife”.
Just as our guide had warned, this youth said that a woman, particularly a foreign woman, would attract much attention and perhaps get into a situation that could not be controlled. [Certainly my recollection of Holi in Pushkar in 2007 is tinged with the inevitability of participation in the dousing of colors]. I decided that I would go back to the hotel, and Dean decided to walk a few blocks more. When he returned about 30 minutes later, he was spattered with pink, purple and turquoise dye, having been “shot” by some kids in the street. The mayhem was “on”.

Our guide, Suresh, had arranged for our group to “play Holi” on the roof, with some
of the staff from the hotel. Not participating in Holi was not an option!

Around 9:30am we all repaired to the roof and for the next two hours, or so, proceeded to soak and be soaked by each other in all manner of color, both liquid and powder.
What a mess, but it really was fun. From somewhere (on this holy holiday) appeared some bottles of beer, one of wine, one of rum… and before noon all was consumed (a bit of the miracle of the loaves and fishes was required as there were about 25 of us sharing the spoils). It was fun.

 We dried off almost instantly in the hot sun, and our previously white clothing was completely splattered and caked with color.
Once dry and back in our room, we stripped them off and hurled them into the garbage.
The streets were filled with revelers until about noon, and then everyone quieted down and withdrew, leaving the streets brightly and absurdly hued but mostly deserted.
 
Later in the day when we got together again with our tour mates, the three Norwegian girls, all very fair blonds, had hair tinged with teal, purple, yellow and pink. It took several days of hair-washing for that color to fade.
 
Not only people, but dogs, cats, goats and cows all were adorned with color for Holi. It was quite a spectacle.
And then it was over.