River Rafting, Nepali Style

Off we go, 2 days of white water rafting Nepali style. 

The equipment we used is like rafting elsewhere: helmets, PFDs, paddles for everyone, inflatable raft for us and the leader, plus a second support raft with 2 assistant guides/cooks that is strategically located in the stronger rapids to pick us out of the water in case we fall in AND to carry our food, tables, chairs, etc. for the cooked lunches.

 

The Nepali style rafting differences are:

1. 
   1. User friendly WARM water (instead of dry suits for Alaska rafting in COLD water).  Several of us took dips into the water to cool off.
   
   

2.  Many local people overhead on cable trolleys and bridges.  At lunch several of us took a ride over to the other side of the river in one of the trolleys.

 

It reminded me of McCarthy Alaska before the bridge was built.

3. Tasty cooked lunches during breaks on the river bank.

4. And great scenery around every river bend (this is actually similar to Alaska).

Our overnight camping spot was at a permanent tent camping site with showers, regular toilets (not pit toilets), and regular beds with mattresses, sheets, and pillows. 

Our large packs were not on the rafts, but have been delivered by van and carried by porter to our tents!  We had spit roasted chicken, potatoes, and vegetables Nepali style with fresh bread and a dessert for dinner. After sampling another village’s raski while playing cards, we retired to our own individual tents.

The next morning we toured the Trisuli Corner Community center located near the tent site. This center is supported by the rafting company we used. 

A school, commercial center and community center help the local village raise their living standard.

We spend another half day in the river to our takeout point. 

The rapids were fun and challenging, but meeting the kids in villages and in the water, and the sights while on the river were the highlights of the rafting trip.

To Nuwakot then Baironi

One of the advantages of getting up early is to see the sunrise and the mountains when they are clearest.  But, since the mountains are still mystic, it is masala chai time in the village.  The rest of the tour group is still in bed when I go to the closest village and seek out a chai shop.  Many people are already up and starting their daily chores which include stopping for chai.  Sometimes I sit with the other men, sometimes several kids come up to me and ask my name and where I am from, sometimes I drink alone, but always it is interesting to see the village by myself. 

One day I watched a goat being slaughtered for the daily meat.  Seeing this reminded me how far removed we are from actual food processing in our urban living.

On the drive to Nuwakot, just west of Kathmandu, I am amazed at the number of terraces that have been built for farming.  From the valley to thousands of feet up the mountainside terraces provide space for planting. 

Some terraces are flooded for rice, some irrigated for grains and corn, and others only receive natural rainfall.

 

At a rest stop we saw groups of women in traditional dress going to a local celebration. 

Several weeks before our trip a local bus ran off the road at a sharp curve.  It is still precariously perched on a steep slope on the side of the road.

We arrived at the Famous Farm Homestay in time to relax,

enjoy the view of the valley,

and meet local inhabitants.

We walked through the local village, Nuwakot,

and enjoyed several building’s architecture

and the many bells at the Shiva temple. 

We continued our assessment of village raski (sp?) (Nuwakot’s has a smoky taste),

and had a great sunset.

After a nice breakfast on the lawn, we drove to Baironi on the Trisuli River. 

Along the drive there were many suspension bridges that allowed access to all the villages on the opposite side of the river from the road. 

Everything needed or produced by the village is carried across the bridge either by people or animals.

At Baironi we boarded our raft for two days on the Trisuli River.  Next blog….white water rafting Nepali style….



A slice of life in Bhaktapur

While we were staying in Bhaktapur we had a walking tour which included the Potter’s Square, a traditional Thanka Painting school, and Durbar square.


To me, the everyday sights and encounters along the walk are as interesting as the ‘destination’ sights.

The architecture reminds me of Turkey and the Ottoman architecture I saw there.
Many of the houses are brick or wood with overhanging wooden balconies, sometimes almost touching in narrow alleyways.
The window frames and lintels and door locks are works of art seen along the streets.
Kids are returning from school and wash is drying from upper windows.

There are many old water faucets along the streets, most not working any more. They are made of stone or brass and are very ornate.
Some of the still working wells are VERY deep.

At the Potter’s Square there are jugs and pots of all sizes, vases, eavestrough downspouts and piggy banks for sale.
After items are thrown they are dried and then piled high with wood and straw for firing.
These are very utilitarian items with no fancy glazing.

At the Thanka Painting school the students practice and apprentice for 8 years and are not considered for master classification for at least 14 years, if ever.
The fine painting detail is only possible with very steady hands. The brushes are as thin as 1 hair! There is no coffee in their break room!

At a nearby public school the students were also having an art lesson, but I didn’t see any 1 hair brushes being used.

Durbar Square has many shrines and there are wood and stone carvings everywhere you look.

If you make a donation and ring the bell you may get ‘bindi-ed’.

After the walking tour is over, it’s Everest time! (A lot more interesting than Miller time.)